v^ 


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I 


%\u  tmknmt^'  Igauuitl, 


GIVING   FULL  ISSTRUCTIOXS    IN 


Mounting  and  Preserving  Birds, 

Ila/Muals,  Insects,  FisheSy  RejJiiles,  Skeletons,  Ec/as,^c, 
THIRD    EDITION. 


Br  S.  H.  SYLTESIEIl.  Tasidermist. 


MIDDLEBOllO,  MASS  : 

PUBLISHED  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the 
year  1865,  by  S.  H.  Sylvestee,  in  the  Clerk's 
Office,  of  the  District  Court  of  Massachusetts. 


"gazette"  trikt,  middleuoeo. 


As  common  things  lose  their  charm,  so  is  it 
more  particularly  in  this  art.  A  person  having 
this  work  should  not  leave  it  exposed  to  the  eyes 
of  the  ciuious.  The  same  caution  should  be 
used  in  the  practice.  Work  by  yourself  that 
none  may  know  the  mysteiies  of  the  art,  unless 
they  are  willing  to  pay  for  the  information,  as 
you  yourself  have  done. 


li'^>\'Wiwliii^'    ^M^w^l 


First   Preparation. 
Let  equal  parts  of  pulverized  arsenic  and  alum 
be  well  mixed  and  kept  in  a  large,  tiglit  box,  la- 
beled "Poison." 

Second  Preparation. 

To^h  pt.  of  60  per  cent,  alcobol  add  an  ounce 
eacli  of  arsenic,  camphor,  alum,  and  two  drs. 
strychnine.  Shake  it  well  and  let  it  stand  12 
hours.  It  is  then  fit  for  use.  Label  "Poison," 
and  keep  the  bottle  well  corked. 


6 


Arsenical  Soap. 
Pulverized  Camphor,  5  drs. 

Piilverizod  Ai-seuic,  (white,)  i   lb. 

White  Soap,  i   lb. 

Salta  Tartar,  1  i  oz. 

Prepared  Clialk,  i  oz. 

The  soap  is  cut  in  tliin  slices,  put  in  a  vessel 
with  a  httlo  water,  over  a  slow  fii-e,  and  stirred 
till  melted,  when  tlie  chalk  and  salts  of  tartar 
are  added.  The  pot  is  then  removed  fmm  the 
fire,  the  arsenic  added,  and  the  whole  thorougldy 
mixed  and  brought  to  tlio  consistency  of  tliick 
paste.  The  camphor  being  previously  triturated 
in  a  mortar,  \nth  a  Uttle  spiiita  of  wine,  is  final- 
ly added,  and  the  paste  put  into  a  jelly  pot  and 
labelled. 

This  preparation  is  prefen-ed  by  some  to  No. 
1,  as  it  keeps  the  sldns  pHable  and  soft,  and 
either  of  them  will  preserve  skin  for  hundreds 
of  years. 

Tools  and  Articles  to  be  used  in  Skinning  and 
Mounting. 
A  sharp  knife  or  scalpel;   a  pair  of  small, 
sharjvpointed  scissoi^;  a  pair  of  large,  shariJ- 


pointed  scissors,  with  strong  blades ;  a  pair  of 
small,  sharp-pointed  stuffers  or  forceps,  blades  to 
be  three  inches  long,  for  the  heads  and  necks  of 
small  birds  and  mammals ;  a  pair  of  sharp- 
pointed  stuffers  or  forceps,  blades  fifteen  inches 
long,  for  birds  and  mammals  of  larger  size, 
made  like  the  curling  tongs  u^ed  by  hair-dress- 
ers, except  the  points  should  be  sharper ;  a  pair 
of  small  forceps  or  wire-twisters,  four  inches 
long,  for  bending  small  wires ;  a  pair  of  large 
forceps  or  twisters,  seven  inches  long,  for  bend- 
ing heavy  wires  ;  a  small  hand  vice,  four  inches 
long,  for  holding  wires  while  filing,  also  to  aid 
in  stretching  the  wires  to  straighten  them;  a  i 
inch  gouge,  beveled  on  the  inside,  to  gouge  out 
a  place  on  the  bottom  of  stools  to  let  in  the 
wires  ;  a  set  of  brad  awLs ;  a  pair  of  small  wire- 
cutters,  one  five  inches  long  and  the  other  eight 
inches  long;  a  large  fish-hook,  with  cord  at- 
tached, for  suspending  the  bodies  while  skin- 
ning ;  a  common  knitting  needle,  to  be  used  with 
the  thumb  in  adjusting  the  feathers ;  a  flat  bas- 
tard file,  four  inches  long;  one  eight  inches 
long;  three  needles,  of  different  sizes,  for  sewing 
up  rents  and  incisions  in  the  skins;  annealed 


8  taxidermists'  manual. 

wire,  No's.  10,  12,  14,  16,  19,  20,  24  and  26,— 
No.  10,  the  largest,  for  eagles,  etc.,  and  No.  26, 
tlie  smallest,  for  humming  birds,  etc. ;  cotton ; 
tow;  soft  hay;  thread;  pins,  of  all  sizes;  tack 
nails;  putty;  sandpaper;  smalts;  paint;  glue; 
artificial  leaves,  everlasting  flowers,  mosses,  etc., 
for  beautifying  perches. 

Skinning  Birds. 

In  the  first  place  fill  the  beak,  nosti'ils,  shot- 
holes,  and  anus  with  cotton,  to  prevent  soihng 
with  blood.  After  this,  measure  the  bhd  from 
tip  of  beak  to  end  of  tail,  and,  if  you  wish  to  bo 
exact,  the  girth  of  the  body.  Then,  taking  the 
bhd  in  your  left  hand,  place  the  thumb  of  the 
right  hand  under  the  wings,  near  the  body,  and 
press  these  back  towards  the  head,  in  order  to 
dislocate  them.  Lay  the  bml  on  its  back,  with 
the  head  at  your  left  hand.  Part  the  feathers, 
from  the  breast  bone  to  the  anus.  Take  the 
knife  or  scalpel  and  cut  through  the  skin,  back 
to  the  anus  and  around  it,  being  careful  not  to 
cut  tln-ough  the  thin  membrane  between  the 
skin  and  intestines.  Should  this  be  done,  how- 
ever, so  as  to  cause  trouble,  it  would  be  best  to 


taxidermists'  manual,  9 

remoye  tlie  intestines  altogether,  to  prevent  tlie 
soiling  of  tlie  plumage. 

Now  turn  the  bii'd  and  separate  the  skin  from 
the  body,  down  to  the  thigh  and  back  to  the 
anus.  Taking  the  leg  in  the  left  hand,  press  up 
the  knee  towards  the  breast  bone,  in  order  to  ex-^ 
pose  the  joint.  Cut  off  at  the  first  joint  from 
the  body,  cutting  towards  your&elf.  Clean  away 
all  the  muscle,  down  to  the  scaly  part  or  tarsus. 
Draw  the  leg  back  into  the  skin,  to  keep  it  moist 
for  poisoning.  Smooth  out  the  feathers,  and, 
that  the  skin  may  not  again  adhere  to  the  body 
or  the  plumage  be  soiled  by  blood  or  fat,  put 
cotton  or  soft  paper  betv\'een  them.  Then,  ^\ith- 
out  turning  the  bird,  separate  the  skin,  etc.,  as 
before,  and  cut  off  the  leg  at  the  con^esponding 
joint,  cutting  fi^om  you.  Loosen  the  skin  at  the- 
base  of  the  tail,  and  cut  off  at  the  last  vertebra, 
being  careful  not  to  sever  the  lower  part  of  the 
quills.  Now  hang  up  the  body  by  inserting  the 
hook  into  the  lower  part  of  the  back  or  rump. 
Press  and  cut  the  skin  fi'om  the  body  down  to 
the  wings,  being  carefid  in  all  cases  not  to  stretch 
it.  Separate  them  next  to  the  body.  Clean  ^  off 
all  the  muscle  on  them  as  far  as  it  is  possible  tQ 


10  TAXIDER3IISTS'    MANUAL. 

turn  the  skiu,  opening  the  natuiul  seam,  or,  if 
the  bird  be  a  large  one,  turn  the  wing  back  and 
make  an  incision  on  the  imder  side  of  the  wiua:, 
from  the  elbow  to  the  wi-ist.     Cut  out  all  mus- 
cle, without  detaching  the  quill  feathers  from  tlio 
opj.x)site  side  of  the  bone.    "Poison  with  prepar- 
ation No.  1,  and  sew  up.     Continue  tlie  inver- 
sion* of  the  skin  by  pushing  (not  pulhng.)  it 
over  the  neck  imtil  the  skull  is  exposed.     Then 
earefidiy  detach  the  dehcate  membrane  of  the 
ear  from  the  cavity  in  the  skull,  witliout  tearing 
or  cutting  it     Witli  tliumb-niiil  and  knife  loosen 
the  skin  from  tlie  skull  until  you  come  to  the 
base  of  the  mandibles,  taking  great  care  not  to 
cut  the  eyehds,  always  cutting  near  the  skull  and 
upon  the  eye,  without  lacerating  the  biill.     Scoop 
out  the  eyes  and  sever  tlie  neck  and  body  from 
tlie  skull  at  its  base,  cutting  a  hole  towaixls  the 
lower  mantiible  lai*ge  enough  to  clean  out  all 
the  briiin  and  ix?move  all  muscle  and  fat.     Now 
exjxvse  every  part  of  the  skin,  wliiie  it  is  yet 
moist^  puUiiig  out  the  wings  and  legs.     Poison 
tlioroughly  with  preparation  No.  1,  makuig  the 
lx)i§on  adhere  to  all  pai'ts.     If  the  skin  is  too 
^y,  moisten  with  a  wet  sponge.     Now  till  the 


taxidermists'  manual.  H 

eye-sockets  with  cotton  and  carefully  press  back 
the  head,  placing  the  thumbs  at  the  base  of  the 
skull,  and,  working  the  skin  back  with  the  ends 
of  the  fingers,  retm^n  wings  and  logs  to  their 
natiu'al  position,  smoothing  all  the  feathers  and 
replacing  the  skin  on  the  skull  by  inserting  the 
knitting  needle  at  the  eyes,  and  lifting  it  up, 
that  it  may  fall  back  to  its  natural  place.  If, 
in  the  operation  of  skinning,  you  have  soiled 
the  feathers,  use  a  sponge  with  warm  water  till 
the  stains  are  removed  and  then  dry  thoroughly 
with  pulverized  Plaster  of  Paris,  keeping  the 
feathers  constantly  in  motion  until  all  the  mois- 
ture is  absorbed.  In  case  the  head  is  so  large 
that  the  skin  of  the  neck  wiU  not  slip  over  it, 
without  too  much  stretching,  as  is  often  the  case 
with  Woodpeckers  and  Ducks,  skin  down  to  the 
base  of  the  skull,  cut  off,  draw  the  head  back, 
and  place  the  beak  in  a  hole  made  in  your  work- 
table  of  a  shape  to  hold  it  firmly.  Now  make 
an  incision  on  the  top,  about  an  inch  from  the 
base  of  the  mandible,  down  to  the  base  of  the 
skull,  being  careful  not  to  get  it  too  long,  clean 
as  before  directed,  poison  and  carefully  sew  up. 
If  you  are  not  ready  to  mount  the  bird,  wi'ap  it 


12 


in  a  dry  paper  or  clotli,  and  keep  it  covered  witli 
moist  cloths  until  ready  to  finish,  which  should 
not  be  too  long  delayed,  unless  you  intend  to 
preserve  the  skin  for  future  mounting.  In  this 
ease,  as  in  dried  skins,  the  feathers  should  be  ad- 
justed and  the  neck  and  body  loosely  stuffed  and 
laid  away  to  dry,  .and  packing  the  head  and  legs 
as  carefully  as  possible.  Dry  skins  should  be 
soaked  or  steamed  soft,  after  removing  the  fill- 
ing, by  the  use  of  cotton  soaked  in  warm  water. 
The  sex  of  the  specimen  may  be  ascertained 
after  skinning  by  making  an  incision  in  the  side, 
near  the  vertebrae,  and  exposing  the  inside  sur- 
face of  the  "small  of  the  back."  The  genera- 
tive organs  will  be  found  tightly  bound  to  this 
region,  nearly  opposite  the  last  ribs,  and  separ- 
ating it  from  the  intestines.  The  testicles  of  the 
males  will  be  observed  as  two  spheroidal,  whit- 
ish bodies,  varying  Tvith  the  season  and  the  spe- 
cies, from  the  size  of  a  pin-head  to  that  of  a 
liazel  nut.  The  ovaries  of  the  female,  consist- 
ing of  a  flattened  mass  of  spheres,  varying  in 
size  with  the  season,  will  be  found  in  the  same 
region. 


taxidermists'    MAlfjUAl,.  l3 

Skinning  Mammals. 
In  skinning  mammals  the  same  general  fea- 
tures are  to  be  observed,  except  in  separating  the 
legs,  wliicb  sbould  be  close  to  tbe  body.  The 
worst  difficulty  will  be  found  in  skinning  the  tail. 
To  effect  this  tie  a  knot  of  strong  cord  over  the 
severed  end,  fastening  firmly  to  some  support. 
Strip  the  end  out  towards  the  tip,  holdmg  the 
skin  back  with  the  fingers  until  it  is  forced  off. 
Poison  well  to  the  extreme  end  with  No.  1,  and 
if  No.  1  will  not  reach  the  end,  use  No.  2.  In 
many  cases  of  animals  it  would  be  well  to  satur- 
ate the  skin  two  or  tlrree  days  in  No.  2.  Tails 
of  Beavers,  Opossums,  Muskrats,  etc.,  should  be 
cut  on  the  under  side.  Kemove  all  muscle  and 
cords,  poison,  stuff,  and  sew  up.  To  prevent  the 
attack  of  moths  and  to  kill  the  eggs  of  destruct- 
ive insects  on  exposed  parts  of  birds  or  mam- 
als,  saturate  the  skin  well  with  benzine,  by  pour- 
ing or  immersion,  which  will  prove  a  sure  des- 
tructive. Keep  in  the  case,  or  near  it,  in  the 
summer,  a  solution  of  spirits  of  camphor. 

Eeptiles. 

The  skinning .  of  Lizards,  Frogs,  Salamau- 


14  taxidermists'  manual. 

ders,  Turtles,  and  Snakes,r;wiirpresent  no  dif- 
ficulties to  one  used  to  skinning  birds  or  mam- 
mals. 

To  skin  a  snake,  open  its  mouth  and  sepa- 
rate the  skull  from  the  vertebree,  detaching  all 
the  muscle  that  adheres  to  the  skin.  Tie  a 
strong  cord  round  the  stum.p  of  the  neck  thus 
exposed;  holding  on  to  this,  strip  the  skin 
down  to  the  extremity  of  the  tail.  Thus  in- 
verted, poison,  turn  back,  and  stuff  with  either 
sand  or  sawdust,  giving  it  a  natural  position 
and  form. 

In  skinning  a  Turtle,  saw  or  cut  tlie  breast- 
|)late  from  the  back,  remove  all  muscle,  poison, 
stuff  where  it  is  needed,  and  sew  or  glue  to- 
gether, as  in  your  judgement  is  best ;  or,  with- 
out removing  the  breast-plate,  split  the  skin 
from  the  anterior  end  of  it  to  the  symphysis  of 
the  lower  jaw,  and  another  from  the  posterior 
end  to  the  vent  or  tip  of  the  tail. 

Fish. 
Skin  Fish,  as  you  v/ould  a  bird  or  mammal. 
Make  the  incision  along  the  right  side  or  bel- 
ly;   remove  the  skin  by  cutting  the  fins  at 


taxidermists'  manual.  15 

their  base  ;  clean  the  cavity  of  the  head  ;  cut 
the  eye  on  the  inside,  leaving  the  cornea  and 
pupil,  unless  you  wish  to  insert  a  glass  one,  in 
which  case  remove  as'jn  a  hird ;  cut  a  piece  of 
black  cloth  or  paper,  of  the  size  of  the  eye ; 
place  it  close  to  the  pupil ;  poison,  stuff,  sew, 
etc.  A  coat  of  varnish  applied  to  the  outside 
will  add  much  to  the  looks. 

Insects, 
Beetles  and  all  insects  can  be  well  preserved 
in  60  per  cent,  alcohol,  or  fourth  proof  whis- 
ky. Kill  all  mor,h3,  etc.,  by  putting  them  into 
a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  and  immersing  it  in 
hot  water,  or  exposing  them  to  the  vapor  of 
ether  or  spts.  of  ammonia,  or  better  than  ei- 
ther, if  not  hairy,  to  Solution  No.  2. 

Mounting  Birds. 
If  the  bird  you  are  to  mount  be  a  small 
one,  say  the  size  of  a  robin,  take  finely-cut 
tow,  or,  if  large,  soft  hay,  and  with  your  small 
stuffers  fill  the  space  between  the  lower  man- 
dible. Then  with  a  little  roll  fill  the  cavity 
in  the  skull.     Now  fill  out  the  neck  gently  to 


16  taxidermists'  manual. 

the  breast,  except  in  Owls  wliich  should  bo 
filled  but  little,  and  in  Herons  or  long-necked 
bii'ds  the  filling  should  be  wound  round  the 
neck- wire,  with  soft  hay  or  tow,  to  give  it  a 
perfectly  natural  appearance.  Be  careful  not 
to  leave  bunches  or  stretch  the  neck  in  the  least 
After  filling  the  neck,  tie  the  wing  bones 
about  half  an  inch  apart,  varying  the  distance 
across  the  body  according  to  the  size  of  the 
bird.  First,  tie  one  wing  strongly  midway  of 
the  bone,  then  make  a  loop  half  an  inch  from 
it  and  tie  the  other  bone  to  it.  Cut  ofi"  the 
knobs  or  large  bunches  on  the  ends,  and  then 
place  tow  under  the  loop,  next  to  the  skin,  to 
meet  what  was  put  into  the  neck,  to  give  the 
back  a  full  and  even  appearance.  Take  of 
your  wire  No.  19,  which  is  about  the  No.  for  a 
robin  and  the  size  of  a  common  knitting-needle, 
some  8  inches,  or  long  enough  to  wind  well 
around  the  perch ;  sharpen  one  end  and  sand- 
paper smooth.  Cut  a  small  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  foot,  and  with  a  twisting  motion,  push 
the  wire  up  through  on  the  inside  of  the  leg 
past  the  heel,  to  the  end  of  the  bone.  Wind 
the  tow  /ouud  the  bone  and  wire,  nearly  the 


taxidermists'  manual.  17 


size  it  was  when  the  muscle  was  on,  beginning 
at  the  end  of  the  bone  and  leaving  oft'  at  the 
heel,  to  give  your  tow  a  fastening  when  you 
draw  the  skin  back.  This  should  be  done  im- 
mediately, being  careful  to  smooth  out  all  the 
feathers.  Now — and  this  rule  applies  in  all 
cases  to  birds — take  of  the  No.  19  wire  a  por- 
tion longer  by  one  third  than  the  length  from 
tip  of  beak  to  tip  of  tail.  Bend  it  over  on  one 
end  to  the  si2$e  and  shape  of  the  bird's  body, 
thus : 


O 


And  fasten  it  firmly.  Using  this  loop  as  a  ba- 
sis, with  soft  hay  or  well-hatcheled  tow,  form  a 
body  precisely  the  shape  of  the  body  you  took 
from  the  bird,  which  the  beginner  should  keep 
to  pattern  from,  and  wrap  well  with  thread  to 
keep  it  in  form.  It  must  not  be  made  so  hard 
that  the  wire  will  not  pass  through  it  with  a 
twisting  motion  easily.  Lay  the  skin  on  its  back 
and  taking  the  head  and  neck  in  your  left  hand 
run  the  neck  wire  of  the  body  up  through  th( 
center  of  the  filling  in  the  neck  into  the  cavity 
of  the  skull,  and  out  through  the  top  of  the  head. 


18  taxidermists'    MANUAlf. 

Draw  the  skin  around  the  breast  into  its  proper 
place.  Pass  the  leg  wires  through  the  body  at 
right  angles,  where  the  knees  would  come  if  the 
bird  was  alive,  far  enough  to  be  hooked  over  in- 
to the  body  firmly  with  the  small  wire-twisters, 
and  to  make  it  stand  firmly  on  the  perch.  Bring 
the  legs  into  their  proper  places  and  gently  draw 
the  skin  to  its  place  over  the  bedy,  bringing  the 
edges  of  the  skin  together.  If  the  bird  is  not 
full  enough,  fill  out  with  fine  cut  tow  to  a  natu- 
ral fullness.  Pin  into  the  body  with  small  pins, 
instead  of  sewing,  though  large  birds  should  be 
sewed.  Cover  over  the  incision  with  the  feath- 
ers. Put  a  wire'  through  the  base  of  the  tail,  in- 
to the  body,  to  keep  it  firmly  in  place,  except  in 
ducks. 

To  spread  the  tail,  pass  a  small,  sharp  wire, 
steel,  if  handy,  through  the  quills  near  the  base. 
Make  a  temporary  perch  in  the  form  of  the  let- 
ter "  T."  Sharpen  the  lower  end  of  the  upright 
and  place  it  in  a  hole  in  your  work-table,  so 
that  after  the  bird  is  upon  it  you  can  turn  it  in 
any  direction.  SHghtly  stretch  the  head  up  to- 
wards the  end  of  the  wire  and  work  the  wings 
into  their  natural  place,  taking  care  to    have 


taxidermists'  manual.  19 

tliem  botii  of  one  length.  Now  pass  a  wire 
through  the  end  into  the  body  at  the  cai-pal  joint 
«o  as  to  pin  it  firmly  and  have  it  look  natural, 
seeing  that  none  of  the  feathers  are  crossed. 
BiTQg  the  head  back  and  give  it  a  life-Hke  po- 
sition for  its  kind.  Then,  taking  your  knitting- 
needle,  seize  every  feather  that  is  out  of  place 
by  the  thumb  and  needle,  and  draw  it  into  its 
place. 

Having  got  the  bird  to  look  natural,  put  com- 
mon pins  into  the  body,  about  one  half  their 
length,  to  which  the  winding  strings  may  be 
fastened.  Put  three  along  the  back,  four  along 
the  belly  and  breast,  and  two  on  each  side. 

Tie  one  end  of  your  thread  to  one  of  the  wing 
wires,  which,  in  all  cases,  should  be  left  out  at 
some  length  to  help  in  winding  the  bird.  First 
proceed  to  carefully  wind  down  the  wings  to 
their  places.  After  ihis  wind  aU  parts  of  the 
bird,  from  one  pin  to  another,  being  careful  not 
^0  ruffle  the  feathers  in  doing  so  and  leaving 
^very  part  to  dry,  smooth  and  natural. 

It  will  take  about  ten  days  for  a  small  bird  to 
dry  so  that  the  feathers  will  not  spring  out  of 
^lace.     The  bird  should  be  well  watched  while 


20 

drying,  and  if  it  have  crest,  wattks,  or  any  like 
feature  that  you  wish  to  show  prominently,  it 
should  often  be  pulled  or  pressed  into  shape, 
while  drying. 

To  spread  the  wings,  put  the  wire  through 
the  carpal  bones  or  quills  of  the  outer  feathers 
of  the  wings,  passing  it  along  the  under  side  so 
as  to  cover  the  wire  by  the  feathers,  and  run  it 
into  the  body.  When  thoroughly  dried  the 
winding  may  be  removed,  the  pins  pulled  out 
and  the  wing  wires  cut  off. 

To  put  in  the  eyes,  first  press  in  the  cotton 
that  is  in  the  socket.  Take  cotton  that  you 
have  already  soaked  in  warm  water,  and  fill  it 
into  and  on  the  outside  of  the  eye,  so  as  to  soak 
the  lid  inside  and  out.  This,  on  a  small  bird, 
will  take  nearly  an  hour.  After  it  is  done  take 
out  the  wet  cotton  only,  and  fill  with  soft  putty 
that  has  been  colored  with  lampblack,  if  the  eye 
is  dark  colored.  Bed  the  eye  in  this  and  ad- 
just the  lid,  by  the  use  of  the  knitting-needle, 
in  its  natural  position.  The  body-^vire,  which 
comes  out  through  the  top  of  the  head,  and 
which  in  all  cases  should' be  left  until  after  the 
eyes  are  in,  for  the  purpose  oi'  steadying  the- 


21 

head,  should  then  be  cut  off.  The  bird  can 
now  be  placed  on  a  stool  or  perch,  made  and 
ornamented  according  to  the  fancy  of  the 
mounter. 

Mounting  Mammals. 
First  stuff  the  head  and  neck  to  their  natural 
shape  or  fullness.  Then  put  the  wires  up 
through  the  legs,  as  in  birds,  wind  with  tow  ; 
with  hay,  if  they  are  large.  Lay  the  skin  on 
its  back,  at  full  length,  and  measure  a  No.  16 
wire  eight  inches  longer,  say  for  a  gray  squir- 
rel, than  the  body.  Make  a  circle,  by  bending 
one  end  of  the  wire  60  that  it  shall  be  about 
an  inch  in  diameter ;  now  form  a  knob  made 
of  soft  hay  and  wound  with  thread,  for  the  leg 
wires  to  be  passed  through  and  be  firmly  fas- 
tened, as  in  birds.  Having  made  the  one  for 
the  hind  legs,  make  another  of  the  same  size 
and  shape  for  the  forward  l-egs,  where  they 
should  come.  Sharpen  and  sandpaper  the  end 
ihat  is  to  go  up  through  the  neck,  then  pass  it 
with  a  twisting  motion  through  the  center  of 
the  filling  in  the  neck,  into  the  cavity,  and  out 
through  the  top  of  the  head.  Fasten  the  leg 
wires  firmly  to  the  knobs. 


22  TAXIDERMISTS^   MANUAL. 

Having  done  this,  fill  underneath  and  around 
the  body  -vrires  and  thighs  with  soft  tow  or 
hay,  to  give  a  natural  fiillness  and  form.  With 
a  needle  and  strong  thread  begin  between  the 
fore  legs  to  sew  up,  passing  the  needle  on  the 
underside,  and  sew  out  so  as  not  to  draw  the 
fur  or  hair  in.  Fill  as  you  sew.  If  the  case 
requires  it,  when  it  is  nearly  sewed  up,  cut  a 
wire  of  the  same  No.  as  was  used  for  the  body, 
sharpen  both  ends,  and  pass  one  end  through 
the  knob,  between  the  hind  legs,  into  the  tail 
to  its  end.  Now  hook  the  other  end  into  the 
knob  firmly,  that  you  may  control  the  shap# 
of  the  tail  as  you  please. 

Finish  sewing  and  moimt  on  a  stool,  either 
sittmg,  standing,  or  running,  as  youi*  taste 
prompts.  Watch  the  ears,  smellers,  mouth, 
toes,  and  all  parts  that  requii-e  it  while  diying, 
and  often  press  them  into  shape. 


taxidermists'  manual.  23 


Preparing  Skeletons. 


The  best  metliod  of  preparing  skeletons  for 
a  cabinet  is  to  cut  away,  as  much  as  possible, 
all  the  fat  and  muscle  and  then  macerate  by 
allowing  it  to  soak  in  cold  water,  running  if 
convenient.  Brush  and  scrape  at  times  until 
perfectly  clean.  Bleeich  by  placing  in  the  sun. 
iSmall  skeletons  can  be  obtained  by  placing  them 
near  an  ant's  nest,  or  in  water  containing  tad- 
poles. Clean  off  grease  that  comes  out  from  the 
bone  by  a  free  use  of  lime  water.  Mount  and 
wire,  if  you  wish. 


24 


Preserving  Eggs. 


Eggs  can  be  emptied  of  their  contents  when 
fresh,  by  making  a  small  pin-hole  in  each  end 
and  carefully  holding  it  over  water,  in  order  to 
prevent  breaking  in  case  of  dropping,  and  by 
blowing  or  sucking  out  their  contents. 

If  the  chick  has  formed,  cut  out  a  small  circle 
on  one  end  and  remove  it.  In  all  cases  carefully 
wash  out  with  poison  No.  2.  Replace  the  piece 
with  glue  or  paste,  using  tissue  paper  if  required. 
AiTange  them  by  placing  each  variety  under 
glass,  in  separate  places,  on  pink  cotton,  with 
name  or  number  of  variety  on  or  by  each. 


taxidermists'  manual.  2o 


Mounting  Insects. 


Wingless  insects,  as  Spiders,  Scoi'pions,  Con- 
fipeds,  or  Thousand  Legs,  as  well  as  all  kinds 
of  worms,  are  best  preserved  in  spiiits.  Butter 
flies.  Beetles,  and  all  of  the  Moth  species,  should 
have  a  small  pin  or  needle  put  through  the  tho- 
rax to  fasten  them  to  the  soft  wood  or  cork  back 
of  a  frame.  Put  beneath  the  glass  a  small  pa- 
per roll  containing  gum  camphor,  which,  by 
slow  evaporation,  will  prevent  the  attack  of  in- 
sects.    Arrange  and  classify  according  to  fancy. 


General  Remarks. 


It  has  been  the  aim  to  give  in  this  work  the" 
surest,  most  easy  and  simple  instruction.  Al- 
though small,  the  information  could  not  be  ob- 
t-ained  of  a  practical  taxidermist  for  less  than 
fifty  dollars.  If  the  directions  are  followed; 
sure  success  will  be  the  result. 

There  are  often  unforseen  obstacles  to  over- 
come, for  which,  of  com'se,  no  directions  can  be 
given.  It  is  left  to  one's  judgement  to  dispose, 
of  them  as  the  case  may  require. 

The  writer  has  had  most  extensive  facilities 


28 


for  obtaining  a  tlioroiigli  knowleclgo  of  tlie  tax- 
idermical  art,  in  all  its  branclios,  from  one  who 
learned  it  from  Prof.  Ogden,  at  one  time  taxidei"- 
jnist  of  the  Bostoui  Museum  and  the  Boston  So- 
ciety of  Natural  History,  and  who  was  acknowl- 
edged to  have  no  superior  in  this  country. 

To  aid  one  in  mounting  and  learning  the  spe- 
cimens and  habits  of  the  birds  of  North  Amer- 
ica, eitlier  tihe  "Matiual  of  Zoology"  or  tiie 
"Elements  of  Zoology,"  published  by  Chades 
Scribner  &  Co.,  124  Grand  Street,  New  York, 
are  now  the  best  known  cheap  works,  as  tlu^y 
contain  numerous  small  cuts  and  natural  posi- 
tions to  mount  from. 

In  getting  specimens,  strict  regard  should  be 
paid  to  the  laws,  and  no  bird  protected  by  the 
same  should  be  killed,  unless  actually  wanted 
for  mounting.  In  shooting  all  small  birds  use 
the  finest  shot,  and  always  observe  the  position 
before  shooting.  Note  especially  the  color  of 
the  eye.  Put  cotton  in  the  beak,  nostrils,  anus, 
and  shot  holes,  to  prevent  the  flow  of  blood  and 
the  soiling  of  the  plumage.  Get  fidl-plumaged 
birds,  and  not  those  that  are  half-fledged,  for 
they  are  not  perfect  specimens. 


taxidermists'  manual.  29 

After  shooting,  the  bird  should  be  placed  in  a 
paper  tunnel,  to  prevent  the  breaking  of  quills 
and  ruffling  of  feathers.  Birds  and  mammals 
should  not  be  skinned  until  the  blood  has  coag- 
ulated, or  the  muscle  and  cords  relaxed,  as  the 
skin  is  then  more  easily  removed  and  the  blood 
seldom  flows. 

Most  of  the  tools,  as  knife,  scissors,  wire- 
twisters,  vice,  gouge,  files,  awls,  wire-cutters,  etc., 
can  be  found  in  any  village  hard-ware  store ; 
putty,  paints,  varnish,  smalts,  etc.,  at  any  paint- 
shop  ;  tow  at  cordage  factories  and  rope-walks , 
arsenic,  alum,  strychnine,  camphor,  glue,  alcohol, 
etc.,  at  drug-stores.  Stuffers  will  generally  have 
to  be  made  by  the  blacksmith,  as  you  order  them. 
Annt^aled  wire,  of  all  sizes,  can  usually  be  found 
at  the  tin  shops  or  ^vire  factories ;  if  not,  get  the 
num]»er  you  wish  and  soften  by  heating  and 
cooling  graducally.  Artificial  eyes  of  all  colors 
f-an  be  obtained  of  C.  F.  A.  Hinrich,  160  Broad- 
way, N.  Y.,  or  at  the  stores  of  naturalists ; 
leaves  and  artificial  flowers  and  colored  mosses, 
for  trimming  perclies,  at  wholesale  miliners. 


TAXIDERMISTS'  MANUAL, 

GIA'ING  full  instruction  in  Skinning,  Mounting  and  Pre- 
serving Birds,  Animais,  Koptiles,  Fishes,  Insects,  Egjis, 
ijkeletons,  <fec.    Sent  by  mail,  postpaid,  on  receipt  of  $1.00* 

Address  S,  H.  SYLVESTER,  Taxidermist, 

3XidLdLlel->oro'',  Mass- 


lie  SOUTHERN 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


B     000  014  693     6 


